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I have some questions 🙋The Spaghetti Traverse of Monte Rosa is an iconic 6-day alpine adventure, offering a unique opportunity to conquer up to 12 summits over 4,000 meters in the stunning Monte Rosa massif. Known for its high-altitude beauty and panoramic views, this traverse is a bucket-list experience for passionate mountaineers seeking both challenge and reward.
The "Spaghetti Traverse Monte Rosa" route winds through the Italian-Swiss border, earning its name from the tradition of indulging in Italian pasta dishes at the welcoming high-altitude huts along the way. With the expertise of an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, you'll navigate glaciers, ridges, and some of the highest peaks in the Alps, all while benefiting from their local knowledge and focus on safety.
Your journey begins with an ascent to the first hut, from which you'll begin bagging 4,000-meter peaks, such as the legendary Castor, Pollux, and Zumsteinspitze. The itinerary is designed to gradually build your altitude acclimatization while maximizing the number of summits climbed. Each day presents new breathtaking views, from the glaciers below to the far-reaching vistas across the Alps, as you move from hut to hut, resting and refueling for the next day's climb.
Highlights of the Spaghetti Traverse Monte Rosa include not only the satisfaction of scaling these majestic peaks but also the experience of staying in renowned mountain huts, such as the Rifugio Quintino Sella and the Capanna Regina Margherita, Europe’s highest hut perched on the summit of Punta Gnifetti. These huts offer more than just shelter - they provide a warm, authentic alpine atmosphere and, of course, delicious Italian dishes that lend the traverse its unique moniker.
Designed for experienced mountaineers with a solid background in high-altitude climbing, the Spaghetti Traverse Monte Rosa is a physically demanding adventure. It requires good fitness and basic mountaineering skills, such as crampon and ice axe use. However, with your guide's expertise and the support of a well-planned itinerary, you'll find the experience as enjoyable as it is challenging.
Join us on this unforgettable journey across Monte Rosa's iconic peaks, where you'll not only tick off multiple summits but also immerse yourself in the cultural and natural wonders of the Italian-Swiss Alps.
The day before the start of the program, at 18 pm, meeting at the Hotel Le Rocher in Champoluc with the Guide, who will introduce themselves, conduct a thorough gear check and provide a comprehensive briefing to ensure you're fully prepared for the exciting journey ahead. This initial meeting sets the stage for the six-day adventure, offering insights into what to expect on this iconic Monte Rosa traverse.
Our Spaghetti Traverse adventure begins in the picturesque village of Saint Jacques, nestled in the Ayas Valley, near Champoluc.
In the morning we’ll embark on a short 4X4 transfer, taking us to Piani di Verra. From there, the true adventure begins with a scenic hike toward the Guide d’Ayas hut, perched at 3,420 meters. This three-hour ascent will allow us to acclimatize gradually as we immerse ourselves in the stunning landscapes of the Monte Rosa massif. Along the way, we’ll stop at the Mezzalama hut, an ideal spot to rest, refuel, and take in breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks.
The hike on this first day offers a gentle introduction to high-altitude trekking and prepares us for the challenges ahead. You'll feel the excitement build as we approach the higher elevations, taking in the crisp Alpine air and marveling at the expansive glaciers. The Guide d’Ayas hut will be our base for the night, offering a comfortable refuge after the day’s hike. It’s also the perfect place to bond with your fellow adventurers, share stories, and prepare for the next stage of the Spaghetti Traverse Monte Rosa.
This first day is designed not only to introduce you to the majestic world of Monte Rosa but also to help you acclimatize and settle into the rhythm of high-altitude trekking. From the moment you step into the mountains, you’ll be surrounded by some of the most spectacular scenery the Alps have to offer, setting the tone for the thrilling adventure that lies ahead.
Today marks the first true taste of high-altitude climbing on the Spaghetti traverse of Monte Rosa. Our objectives are two iconic 4000-meter peaks: the West Breithorn (4,165 m) and Central Breithorn (4,160 m). These summits offer a thrilling introduction to high-altitude mountaineering, setting the stage for the more challenging climbs ahead.
After an early start at the Guide d’Ayas hut, we’ll prepare ourselves for the adventure with a hearty breakfast and a thorough equipment check. Setting off from the hut, the track winds through a crevassed glacier, revealing awe-inspiring views of the Monte Rosa massif. The initial part of our route provides a gradual ascent, perfect for adjusting to the altitude as we make our way higher into the Alps.
Our first goal is the West Breithorn, renowned for its accessibility among the 4000-meter peaks. Despite being considered one of the “easier” summits, the West Breithorn offers no shortage of excitement, with its stunning ice-covered slopes and vast snowfields. As we approach the summit, the sweeping panorama of the surrounding peaks unfolds before us, a sight that’s sure to leave you breathless – and not just because of the altitude!
Once we reach the top of the West Breithorn, we’ll take a well-deserved break to enjoy the incredible views before continuing the traverse along the ridgeline toward the Central Breithorn. The ridge between the two peaks is narrow but exhilarating, offering an incredible perspective on the rugged beauty of the Monte Rosa range. The climb to the Central Breithorn, though brief, provides another opportunity to test your stamina and savor the thrill of conquering another 4000-meter giant.
After summiting both peaks, we’ll descend back to the Guide d’Ayas hut, where we will spend our second night. The descent allows time to reflect on the day’s achievements, with the knowledge that you’ve successfully completed your first high-altitude climbs of the Spaghetti traverse Monte Rosa.
Tonight, as you rest back at the hut, you’ll be able to look forward to the even bigger adventures that await in the days ahead!
On day three of the Spaghetti traverse, we set our sights on two magnificent 4,000-meter peaks: Pollux (4,091 m) and Castor (4,228 m). This stage is one of the most exhilarating and rewarding days of the traverse, as we climb both summits and enjoy the thrill of true high-altitude mountaineering.
After another energizing breakfast at the Guide d'Ayas hut, we’ll start our ascent toward Pollux (4,091 m). The climb to Pollux involves snow slopes, some sections of mixed/rocky terrain and some fixed ropes. Although it’s a technically more demanding climb than the Breithorn, our guides will be there to provide support, ensuring that every step is taken with precision and care.
Once we reach the summit of Pollux, we’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and valleys, making the climb well worth the effort. The sense of achievement that comes with standing atop Pollux is immense, as you’ll have successfully tackled one of the prominent 4,000-meter peaks of the Monte Rosa massif.
After savoring the moment, we’ll continue our journey toward the second challenge of the day: Castor, towering at 4,228 meters. Back to the base of the Pollux, we'll start our approach, which presents more steep snow slopes, and as we near the top, we’ll need to carefully navigate a narrow and exposed ridge.
This section of the climb is not for the faint-hearted, but the feeling of triumph upon reaching the summit is unparalleled. Castor’s summit offers spectacular 360-degree views of the Swiss and Italian Alps, making it one of the most memorable points of the entire Spaghetti traverse Monte Rosa.
Following our time at the summit of Castor, we’ll begin our descent to the Quintino Sella Hut at 3,585 meters, where we’ll spend the night.
This third day on the Monte Rosa Spaghetti traverse is a true test of stamina and skill, but it’s also one of the most rewarding, as you conquer two of the most iconic peaks in the Monte Rosa range.
On day four of the Spaghetti traverse, we embark on one of the most technical and thrilling parts of the journey: the traverse of the Lyskamm Nose, standing at an impressive 4,272 meters.
We begin the day with an early start from the Quintino Sella Hut (3,585 m), ready to take on the challenge. Early in the season, the route typically follows the snowy slope to the right, where the snow provides a more forgiving surface for the ascent. In the later season, as ice becomes more prevalent, the route shifts to the rocks on the left side of the slope. This involves a relatively easy scramble, followed by two steep ice pitches that require precision and technique. The climb itself is a rewarding experience, offering breathtaking views as we approach the summit of Lyskamm Nose.
Once we conquer the Lyskamm Nose, we’ll descend to the other side, soaking in the magnificent scenery that surrounds us. But the day’s adventure doesn’t stop there. Next, we set our sights on the Piramide Vincent, another remarkable 4,000-meter peak standing at 4,215 meters. The climb up Piramide Vincent adds another achievement to our list of conquered summits, and the views from this vantage point are truly spectacular, stretching across the Monte Rosa massif and beyond.
After the ascent, we’ll make our way down to one of two welcoming mountain refuges: the Gnifetti Hut (3,647 m) or the Mantova Hut (3,498 m). These huts are conveniently located close to each other, and the choice of which one we stay in depends on availability. Both provide a comfortable place to rest after a challenging and exhilarating day, offering stunning views and hearty meals to help us recover for the final stages of our traverse.
Day five promises to be one of the most rewarding legs of our journey. We will ascend a series of remarkable 4,000-meter peaks, each one offering its own unique challenges and breathtaking views. Our first goal is the Balmenhorn at 4,167 meters, where a striking statue of Christ the Redeemer welcomes us to the high-altitude world. From there, we press onward to the Schwarzhorn (4,322 m), a lesser-known but equally stunning summit.
Our journey continues to the Ludwigshohe (4,342 m), a snow-capped peak that offers panoramic views of the surrounding glaciers and towering mountains. Next, we tackle the Parrotspitze, standing tall at 4,432 meters, where we experience the thrill of being surrounded by some of the highest and most iconic peaks in the Alps.
Finally, we reach Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), one of the highest summits of the Monte Rosa massif. From here, the views are truly amazing, with the entire Monte Rosa massif spread out beneath us. This series of summits not only serves as a testament to your climbing progress but also provides an unforgettable sense of accomplishment.
The day culminates in our arrival at the Margherita Hut, the highest hut in the Alps, situated on the summit of Punta Gnifetti at 4,554 meters. This extraordinary refuge is not only famous for its altitude but also for offering one of the most spectacular sunset views you will ever witness in the Alps. From this vantage point, the surrounding peaks glow with the colors of the setting sun, providing a perfect end to a challenging day.
Sleeping at the Margherita Hut is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. After spending the previous days climbing and acclimatizing, you’ll find that the thin air of 4,554 meters is manageable, allowing for a restful night in this unparalleled alpine setting. The hut provides a cozy atmosphere and a sense of adventure as you prepare for the final stages of your epic Monte Rosa Spaghetti traverse.
As we embark on the final day of the Spaghetti traverse of Monte Rosa, we take a moment to savor the spectacular high-altitude environment one last time. From the Margherita Hut, perched at an impressive 4,554 meters, we begin our descent through the vast glacier, retracing the route that brought us here the day before.
The journey takes us through stunning, icy landscapes as we navigate our way toward Punta Indren, where the lifts will carry us down to Gressoney, a charming alpine village nestled at the foot of Monte Rosa.
After reaching Gressoney, we will take a gondola up to the Bettaforca Col, a picturesque mountain pass that provides one final chance to appreciate the breathtaking beauty of the Monte Rosa Spaghetti traverse. As we continue our descent, a short hike will bring us back to our vehicles in Saint Jacques, signaling the conclusion of our epic six-day alpine adventure.
Although our time in the high mountains comes to an end, the memories of the Spaghetti traverse - the twelve majestic 4,000-meter summits, the bonds forged with fellow climbers, and the stunning alpine scenery - will stay with us long after we return to civilization.
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The meeting point for the course is at the Hotel Le Rocher, in Champoluc (click here for the GPS point, at 6:00 PM on the day before the program begins. If you have not booked your stay at Hotel Le Rocher (which we recommend btw), please attend the meeting with the guide bringing the gear you will use during the week (both technical equipment and clothing), so that we can conduct a gear review.
For the Spaghetti traverse, you need a combination of technical and physical skills. :
Training is essential for a safe and successful Spaghetti Tour. Over the years, we’ve seen that specific preparation greatly enhances your chances of completing this incredible multi-day mountaineering journey. The Spaghetti Tour demands excellent fitness, endurance, and technical skills to conquer multiple peaks above 4,000 meters.
In the past, finding coaches specialized in mountaineering was a challenge. But with the launch of Uphill Athlete by renowned alpinist Steve House, the landscape of mountain sports training changed completely.
That’s why we partnered with Steve and Uphill Athlete, the leaders in mountain sports training, to support your preparation. Their science-based methods and expert-designed plans have helped countless mountaineers develop the strength, endurance, and confidence needed for demanding adventures like the Spaghetti Tour.
When you sign up for any of our courses, you’ll receive a voucher for:
With this partnership, you’ll have access to the best tools and guidance to make your Spaghetti Tour dream a reality. Start preparing today!
The Guiding Ratio is 1:3 (1 Guide to 3 Guests) for all the duration of the Spaghetti Traverse of the Monte Rosa.
The best season to do the Monte Rosa Spaghetti Traverse is from late June to early September. Here’s a breakdown of why this period is ideal:
Overall, mid-July to early September is the most stable and favorable period for completing the Spaghetti Traverse, providing the best balance of weather, snow conditions, and accessibility to mountain huts.
In case of bad weather during the Monte Rosa Spaghetti Traverse, the guide will prioritize safety and adapt the plan to ensure the group’s well-being. Here’s what typically happens:
If the weather turns dangerous - such as heavy snow, high winds, or thunderstorms—the guide may modify the route to avoid exposed or high-altitude sections. They might opt for safer alternatives, steering the group toward more sheltered areas or lower altitudes, while still providing a rewarding experience.
If bad weather is temporary, the group might delay the ascent or traverse for a few hours or even a day. The guide will decide to stay at a mountain hut, where the group can wait for better weather. Mountain huts on the Spaghetti Traverse are well-equipped for extended stays, providing shelter, food, and a place to rest.
In extreme weather conditions, the guide might decide to descend early to avoid risks like avalanches or severe storms. If the weather makes it too dangerous to continue, returning to a lower altitude or even the valley could be the safest option.
The guide will constantly monitor weather conditions, using their expertise to make informed decisions. They’ll communicate any changes to the group and adjust the itinerary as needed, always prioritizing safety over the planned schedule.
During the Monte Rosa Spaghetti Traverse, participants are responsible for bringing their own lunches and snacks for the climbs. While breakfast and dinner are provided at the mountain huts, lunch is typically eaten on the go during the ascents.
Opt for lightweight, energy-dense foods that are easy to carry and consume quickly, such as dried fruits, energy bars, nuts, and chocolates. These options provide essential carbohydrates, proteins, and fats to sustain energy levels during long climbs.
High-calorie snacks like trail mix, energy gels, and protein bars are perfect for quick boosts during short breaks. Keeping hydrated is equally important, so consider bringing a water bottle or hydration system and refill it at the huts.
Since the high altitude and exertion demand constant fuel, proper nutrition is key to a successful and enjoyable traverse. Always consult your guide for any specific recommendations based on the day's itinerary.
Please consider that every day, after reaching the hut, you can look forward to a proper Italian meal, staying true to the "Spaghetti Tour" name. Don’t forget that we are in Italy, where the food is good and the prices are reasonable 😉!
The most convenient airports for reaching Champoluc are Turin Caselle and Milano Malpensa.
In the Italian mountain huts, you can expect hearty, delicious meals that showcase traditional Italian cuisine. Dinners often include pasta dishes like spaghetti, risotto, or polenta, followed by meats such as beef, chicken, or sausages, accompanied by vegetables and bread. For dessert, you'll find local treats like fruit tarts or cakes. Breakfasts are typically lighter, featuring bread, butter, jam, and coffee or tea. The meals are nourishing and provide the energy you need for the climbs, ensuring you're well-fueled for each day's adventure. All huts offer vegetarian options as well as alternatives for specific intolerances (gluten-free, lactose-free, etc.). In all huts, you will need to purchase bottled water.
For the Spaghetti Traverse, it's recommended to bring around €150-200 in cash for your stay in the huts. While many huts accept card payments, it's always wise to have cash on hand as some remote locations may experience card machine issues or lack connectivity. This amount should cover any additional expenses like drinks, snacks, and small purchases.
Mobile phone reception in the mountain huts can be variable. While some huts may have decent signal, others may have limited or no reception. It is also usually possible to charge your electronic devices, though having a power bank can be useful. The charging outlets are of the European type, so if you are coming from outside Europe, you will need to bring an adapter.
We always recommend that clients have two types of insurance. One should cover search and rescue expenses and specifically include extreme activities like mountaineering. Additionally, we advise taking out cancellation insurance in case last-minute issues prevent you from participating.
We are always looking for innovative ways to satisfy our clients and stay at the forefront of the industry. That's why, in addition, we haev partnered with WetterHeld, a forward-thinking German insurance provider. Their parametric insurance is designed to automatically refund you if it rains during your course, ensuring that you’re covered no matter what nature throws your way. With this partnership, we’re making sure that your experience is as seamless as possible, even when the weather doesn’t cooperate. Get a quote directly on their website by clicking here (please check the specific conditions on their website).
For the Spaghetti traverse, you need a combination of technical and physical skills. :
B3 Mountaineering boots are essential for the type of climbing you'll face. These boots provide the necessary support, warm and performance. B2 boots are not fine for high altitude climbs.
Steel 12-point crampons with anti-balling plates are essential. Avoid 10-point, aluminum, or rigid one-piece models, as they won't provide the necessary grip or flexibility.
A lightweight, comfortable harness. Choose one with gear loops, ensuring it's compact and easy to wear with a backpack for unrestricted movement.
A lightweight, durable climbing helmet. It should provide solid protection while being well-ventilated and comfortable for extended wear during the ascent.
Extendable trekking poles are useful during preparation days but not needed for the tech climbs. Ensure they're lightweight, adjustable, and easy to pack away when not in use.
A screw-gate carabiner is a versatile and reliable tool for ski touring. It features a locking mechanism for added security, making it ideal for anchoring gear or connecting components.
A personal anchoring system is essential for safety when skiing on a glacier. It is valuable in rescue situations and during potential abseils, ensuring versatility and reliability.
A hybrid mountaineering ice axe with a maximum length of 60 cm offers improved comfort during the climb. It provides better maneuverability and fits well with climbing gear.
Bring sunglasses with high protection (grade 3 or 4) to protect your eyes from intense sunlight and glare at high altitudes, ensuring clear vision and reducing eye strain.
Bring ski goggles to protect your eyes from blizzards, strong winds, and cold. They ensure clear vision and shield your face from harsh weather conditions.
Bring a headlamp with new batteries and a minimum output of 300 lumens. It’s essential for visibility and safety during night-time climbs and low-light situations.
Bring gaiters to protect your boots and lower legs from snow, debris, and moisture during the climb. They keep you dry and comfortable by preventing snow or rocks from entering your boots.
Pack a down jacket to ensure warmth in cold conditions. Its insulation traps body heat, making it ideal for high altitudes and freezing temperatures, while remaining lightweight and compressible.
Your hardshell jacket must include a hood for full protection from wind, rain, and snow. Waterproof and breathable, it serves as a critical outer layer, ensuring comfort and mobility in harsh conditions.
Bring full-finger thin gloves for dexterity and light protection during the Haute Route. They offer warmth in mild conditions while allowing precise hand movements.
Full-finger softshell gloves are essential for protection against wind and light moisture. They offer warmth, durability, and flexibility, ensuring ease of movement while handling gear in cold conditions.
A buff is versatile and provides essential protection against wind, cold, and sun. It can be worn around the neck, over the face, or as a head covering, offering warmth and comfort in changing conditions.
A warm hat is crucial for retaining heat during cold conditions. It provides insulation for your head and ears, ensuring comfort while climbing in low temperatures and protecting against wind chill.
A sun hat is essential for protecting your face and neck from harmful UV rays. It offers shade and breathability, keeping you cool and comfortable during long hours in sunny conditions.
Lightweight leggings are ideal for base layer during cold days. Merino wool is preferable for its moisture-wicking properties and comfort, providing warmth without adding bulk and helping regulate temperature.
Stretch softshell pants offer flexibility and comfort. They provide a balance of breathability and weather resistance, allowing for ease of movement while protecting against wind and light moisture.
Hardshell waterproof pants are vital for protection against rain and snow. Choose ones with full-length separating side zippers for easy access and ventilation, ensuring comfort and mobility.
A lightweight long-sleeve sun top is essential for UV protection. Opt for merino wool or synthetic materials instead of cotton for better moisture management and comfort.
Pack three pairs of hiking socks, long ones, for added protection. They help prevent blisters and ensure your feet stay comfortable throughout your trip.
A midlayer top is essential for insulation and must fit comfortably over your baselayers. It provides warmth while allowing for breathability, making it ideal for varying temperatures during your tour.
A sleeping bag liner is essential for comfort, with silk being preferable due to its lightweight nature. It’s mandatory in all huts in the Alps, used alongside the blankets provided for a cozy sleep.
A hydration system with at least 1 liter capacity is essential, depending on your drinking habits. Camelbacks work well but may freeze in cold conditions, so plan accordingly to stay hydrated.
A personal care bag is essential for your trip. Include a toothbrush, toothpaste, first-aid tape, Band-Aids and any personal medications or prescriptions for a safe and comfortable journey.
Sunscreen with SPF 50 is essential for high mountain conditions, providing superior protection against harmful UV rays. Apply generously to all exposed skin to prevent sunburn during the tour.
A high-protection lipscreen is essential for shielding your lips from UV rays and harsh weather in the mountains. It helps prevent chapping and sunburn, keeping your lips moisturized and safe.
Earplugs are a must-have for your trip, especially if you find yourself in a hut with a neighbor who thinks they're auditioning for a snoring competition. Enjoy some peace and quiet!
Keep your personal documents in a waterproof bag to protect them from moisture and damage. This ensures that essentials like your ID, permits, and insurance information stay safe.
A technical mountaineering backpack. It should have a capacity of 30-40 liters, providing enough space for gear without being too bulky or heavy