Mont Blanc is an incredibly popular destination for mountaineers, attracting thousands of visitors each year who aspire to reach the summit of the Alps at 4,810 meters.
The easiest and safest route for climbing Mont Blanc is through the Gouter refuge on the French side, especially considering the increase in danger due to serac falls along the path from the Refuge des Cosmiques.
Although the ascent of Mont Blanc is not technically highly demanding (according to modern mountaineering standards), reaching the summit of Europe’s roof certainly requires excellent physical preparation. With that being said, it should also be noted that many of the climbers we have guided to the summit in these 20 years had little or even no glacier experience when they enrolled in our program.
The program is designed to allow an individual, highly physically fit and with a certain degree of athletic skills, to gradually acclimatize over the first three days, learning the technical skills necessary for the ascent of Mont Blanc.
The most demanding part of the climb is the ascent to the Gouter hut, which involves crossing the famous Grand Couloir and ascending an exposed ridge with safety cables in certain sections.
From the Gouter Hut to the summit of Mont Blanc, the climb proceeds on a glacier. First, you traverse wide slopes to reach the Vallot Shelter and then ascend the Bosses ridge for the final 500 meters. The primary challenge during this second part is the high altitude.
The sunrise view from the summit of Mont Blanc, with its shadow casting on the western French plain, is an unforgettable experience etched into memory.
The first three days will be dedicated to the ascent of Gran Paradiso (4,061 m), spending two nights at the Chabod Hut (2,750 m). This will enable us to achieve a gradual acclimatization and arrive well-prepared for the last 3 days of the program.
The final ascent to Mont Blanc includes 2 nights at the Gouter Hut, which represents the best strategy for crossing the Grand Couloir when the sun has not yet started to warm its upper part (as it faces west), minimizing the risk of falling rocks. Moreover, having 3 days available, in the event of adverse weather conditions forecasted for day 5, we can decide to shift the summit attempt to day 6 (entirely feasible) and descend directly to the valley on this last day.
PLEASE NOTE: to secure a spot at the Gouter Hut for the summer of 2025, it's essential to book several months in advance. The hut will open an initial "wave" of reservations, reserved for mountain guides, around October 2024. Therefore, it would be important to book by 31.12.2024 if you aim to climb Mont Blanc in 2025, to ensure a place at the hut.
The day before the program starts, at 6 PM, meeting at the Hotel Funivia in Courmayeur with the guide, who will introduce themselves, review your gear, and go over the week's program along with the latest weather forecast. If you're not staying at the Hotel Funivia, please make sure to attend the meeting with your gear (technical gear and clothing), so the guide can conduct a proper gear review and ensure you are well equipped for the week ahead.
In the morning, after breakfast, after a short drive, we will arrive at Pont in Valsavarenche, the starting point for the Chabod Hut. The ascent to the hut (at a very leisurely pace to allow for effective acclimatization) will take us approximately 2/2.5 hours. We find ourselves in the Gran Paradiso National Park, and it’s not uncommon, during the ascent, to encounter herds of ibex grazing carefreely on the mountain slopes.
In the afternoon, before dinner, there will be time for a preparatory briefing for the next day. The Guide will explain how to put on crampons, how we will rope up on the glacier, and the behavior to follow during the ascent, providing all the information we will need for the following day.
Later, finally, we can enjoy the fantastic cuisine of the Chabod Hut and a well-deserved dinner!
Then off to bed, as an early wake-up awaits us tomorrow.
The goal for today is to reach the summit of Gran Paradiso, at 4.061 m.
After an early breakfast (around 4:30 a.m.), we will begin our hike with head torches on. Upon crossing the moraine, we will reach the Laveciau glacier, located just below the north face of Gran Paradiso. Here, we will rope up and put on our crampons.
Traversing amidst large crevasses and ice-cliffs (no need to worry, though!), we will arrive at the base of the final rocks, just before reaching the summit. The last segment will involve a short yet exposed section, after which we will reach the summit and the Virgin.
From the summit, we will be treated to a breathtaking view encompassing the entire circle of the Alps!
Returning to the glacier, we will descend once again to the Chabod Hut, where a hearty lunch awaits us to refill our energy. The ascent of Gran Paradiso, although technically easy, still requires good training and endurance and serves as excellent preparation (and a test) for the Mont Blanc ascent.
Tonight, we will sleep again at the Chabod Hut to complete our acclimatization for the ascent of Mont Blanc. In the afternoon, there will be a debriefing session with the Guide to draw conclusions from the day (it’s a good opportunity to check if all equipment is in order or if any adjustments are needed).
Time to get back to the valley.
Today, a relaxed wake-up (around 7 am).
After a hearty Italian breakfast 🙂, we will descend once again to the valley to return to Courmayeur and our hotel. The objectives for this day are essentially two: recharge all energies in preparation for the ascent of Mont Blanc in the following days and (very importantly) organize any equipment that may not have proven suitable during the ascent of Gran Paradiso.
We will be back in Courmayeur in the late morning, with plenty of time to achieve these two goals for the day.
Our goal of the day is to reach the Gouter Hut, where we’ll spend our first night on the mountain.
After crossing into France, from Les Houches, we will take the cable car to Bellevue and then the Mont Blanc train, which will transport us to the Nid d’Aigle station at an elevation of 2,386 meters. It is from this point that our climb will start.
The view from Nid d’Aigle is truly breathtaking, although the summit of Mont Blanc is still obscured from our sight at this stage. Nevertheless, we will be surrounded by other magnificent mountains, including the Aiguille de Bionassay and the Aiguille de Tricot, with their massive seracs creating a stunning backdrop.
After approximately 2 to 2.5 hours of walking, we will arrive at the Tete Rousse Hut, located at an altitude of 3,167 meters.
At the Tete Rousse refuge, we will rope up (and potentially put on crampons, depending on the mountain conditions) and begin the ascent of the most technical part of the climb, namely the rock section between the Tete Rousse refuge and the Gouter refuge. During this stretch, we will also traverse the notorius Grand Couloir, the conditions of which depend heavily on the freezing level. Crossing it in the late morning (still in the shade, as it faces west) will allow us to minimize the risk of falling rocks.
Subsequently, aided by steel cables in certain sections that facilitate the ascent, we will first reach the old Gouter refuge and then, via an easy snow ridge, the new Gouter Hut, where we will spend the night.
Our goal for today: reaching the summit of Mont Blanc!
Sleeping two nights at the Gouter hut will provide us with several advantages, allowing us to manage the ascent to the summit of Mont Blanc based on weather conditions. In the case of stable weather throughout the day, we may even decide to reach the summit in the late morning, departing from the hut around 8 am, thus avoiding the coldest hours of the morning if temperatures are particularly harsh (it’s worth noting that 80% of the time, the summit of Mont Blanc experiences very strong winds, significantly dropping the perceived temperature, even below -20°C in the middle of summer).
This way, we will be back at the Gouter hut in the early afternoon (it takes about 2.5 hours from the summit to the hut, so it’s a relatively fast descent).
On the other hand, in the case of unstable weather in the afternoon, the wake-up call for the summit will be around 2:30 in the morning (departure from the hut around 3/3:15), aiming to reach the summit around 7:30/8 am. The section from the Gouter hut to the summit requires, for a moderately trained roped party, approximately 4 hours of ascent.
Our route will take us first to the Dome du Gouter shoulder and then to the Vallot shelter, located at an altitude of around 4,300 meters. Beyond this point, the ridge will become steeper and more exposed, featuring several deceptive false summits. However, our perseverance will eventually lead us to the highest point in the Alps!
It goes without saying that the panoramic view from the summit is simply awe-inspiring!
Back at the Gouter hut, we can finally rest and recover after a demanding and rewarding day
Time to get back to the valley.
Today, we’ll have a leisurely breakfast around 7 o’clock before beginning our descent from the Gouter hut. Embarking on the descent on the third day provides us with two significant advantages:
By late morning or early afternoon, we will make our way back to the train station, ultimately descending to Les Houches and then drive back to Courmayeur.
Here our program will end, not before celebrating the just-completed adventure with a good fresh beer (obviously hoping to have reached the summit of Mont Blanc, but we are certain that, in any case, it will have been a great experience, and once again the mountain will have taught us something!)
The price includes:
The price does not include:
The meeting point for the course is at Hotel Funivia in Courmayeur, at 6:00 PM on the day before the program begins. If you have not booked your stay at Hotel Funivia (which we recommend), please attend the meeting with the guide bringing the gear you will use during the week (both technical equipment and clothing), so that we can conduct a gear review.
Climbing Mont Blanc is a serious undertaking that requires exceptional physical preparation. Although the course is designed to optimize the preparation phase and, most importantly, acclimatization, it is necessary to come to the course with a consistent and intense training regimen that ensures the ability to sustain prolonged physical effort for several hours.
Additionally, the conditions on the upper part of the mountain are often very harsh, with strong winds and cold temperatures that make the ascent quite challenging. Therefore, being mentally prepared is also crucial, as reaching the summit will require intense effort.
From a technical perspective, the ascent from the Gouter Hut route does not require significant mountaineering experience (the first few days on Gran Paradiso will also be used to refine our crampon technique in preparation for Mont Blanc). The more technical sections include the stretch between the Tete Rousse Hut and the Gouter Hut (which involves crossing the famous couloir), a rock section with a maximum difficulty of Grade II (sometimes traversed with crampons on), and the final ridge after the Vallot Hut, which becomes quite narrow and exposed. Prior experience with this type of terrain is certainly useful, although we can confidently say that around 60% of our Guests have reached the summit without any prior mountaineering experience.
Training is essential for a safe and successful Mont Blanc ascent. Over the years, we’ve seen that specific preparation significantly increases your chances of summiting this iconic peak. Mont Blanc demands exceptional fitness, endurance, and technical skills to navigate its challenging terrain and high altitude.
In the past, finding coaches specialized in mountaineering was difficult. However, the launch of Uphill Athlete by renowned alpinist Steve House has transformed mountain sports training.
That’s why we partnered with Steve and Uphill Athlete, the leaders in mountain sports training, to support your preparation. Their science-based methods and expert-designed plans have helped countless mountaineers build the strength, endurance, and confidence needed for challenging climbs like Mont Blanc.
When you sign up for any of our courses, you’ll receive a voucher for:
With this partnership, you’ll have access to the best tools and guidance to make your Mont Blanc dream a reality. Start preparing today!
The Guiding Ratio is 1:2 (1 Guide to 2 Guests) for the whole course.
The best conditions for climbing Mont Blanc are typically when the famous Gouter couloir is still snow-covered (and temperatures are not too high), a condition that helps keep the rocks of the couloir 'glued' in place. This is why the best conditions are generally from mid-June to late July, before the heat begins to degrade the situation. However, the main factor determining the conditions of the Gouter couloir is the freezing level.
As long as the freezing level remains below a certain altitude, even if the Gouter couloir is completely dry, there are very few rockfalls (a condition that keeps the risk of being hit while crossing the couloir at an absolutely acceptable level). On the other hand, when the freezing level rises above a certain altitude (generally 3,800/4,000 m) for several consecutive days, rockfall becomes much more intense, and the risk exceeds acceptable levels.
This, of course, refers to the mountain conditions; as for the weather, unfortunately, that is something we cannot control (at least not yet 😁) - see below for the specific FAQ on what happens in case of bad weather.
Since the weather is beyond our control, in the event of bad weather or poor conditions on the mountain, the lead Guide will suggest alternative climbs. Generally, when bad weather sets in around the Mont Blanc, there are other areas in the eastern/southern Alps that remain on the edge of the storm, allowing us to complete highly satisfying climbs that offer technical challenges similar to Mont Blanc.
Every decision made by our Guides on the mountain is focused on the safety of our Guests, which is always the north-star behind all our decisions (we have a 20-year track record with no incidents in the Alps, and we intend to keep it still for a long time!).
During the program, a total of 4 nights will be spent in mountain huts: Day 1 and Day 2 at the Chabod hut for acclimatization and preparation and Day 4 and 5 at the Gouter hut.
On Day 3 accommodation will be in a hotel in the valley. Our base will be Courmayeur, an ideal starting point for the course (which also has the advantage of being less expensive than nearby Chamonix). Courmayeur offers a variety of accommodation options, though we recommend booking at Hotel Funivia (be sure to mention that you're booking for the course with Summitguides). Besides being our starting base (and the location of the initial meeting), Hotel Funivia offers exceptional value for money, and the warm hospitality of Elena and Vittorio, the owners, remains an unforgettable souvenir in the testimonials of our Guests. In addition, you will be able to leave your extra belongings here while we are in the huts.
Of course, booking at Hotel Funivia is not mandatory, and you're free to explore other options in Courmayeur (here’s a useful link for your search).
During the climbs, we recommend bringing easily digestible food (cereal bars, dried fruit, etc.).
On Day 1, on our way to the hut, it will be possible to stop by a supermarket and buy what you need. As for the 3 days you'll spend at the Chabot hut, once the climb is finished and you're back at the hut, usually in the early afternoon, you'll be able to order a proper meal. Don’t forget that we are in Italy, where the food is good and the prices are reasonable 😉!
The water at the Chabod Hut is drinkable and it won’t be necessary to buy bottled water.
On day 3, after returning to Courmayeur, you will have plenty of time to restock your food supplies for the Mont Blanc ascent.
As for the dinners at the Gouter Hut, although the portions are not as generous as at the Chabod Hut, the meals are still energy-packed and allow you to recover the energy lost during the day. The water at the Gouter Hut is not drinkable, and you will need to purchase bottled water.
The most convenient airports for reaching Courmayeur are Geneva and Milan Malpensa. Geneva definitely offers a better solution in terms of public transportation to Courmayeur, whereas from Milan Malpensa, it's necessary to rent a car.
At the Chabod hut, you can expect a typical Italian dinner, starting with a first course of pasta or soup, followed by a second course usually consisting of vegetables or meat, and a dessert, with very generous portions. At the Gouter Hut, meals are also plentiful and very good. Both huts offer vegetarian options as well as alternatives for specific intolerances (gluten-free, lactose-free, etc.).
Both huts where we will stay overnight accept credit cards, so there is no need to carry much cash with you (just for small expenses). In Courmayeur, there are numerous ATMs available in case of need.
Yes, there is usually good reception at the huts. It is also possible to charge your electronic devices, though having a power bank can be useful. The charging outlets are of the European type, so if you are coming from outside Europe, you will need to bring an adapter.
We always recommend that clients have two types of insurance. One should cover search and rescue expenses and specifically include extreme activities like mountaineering. Additionally, we advise taking out cancellation insurance in case last-minute issues prevent you from participating.
We are always looking for innovative ways to satisfy our clients and stay at the forefront of the industry. That's why, in addition, we haev partnered with WetterHeld, a forward-thinking German insurance provider. Their parametric insurance is designed to automatically refund you if it rains during your course, ensuring that you’re covered no matter what nature throws your way. With this partnership, we’re making sure that your experience is as seamless as possible, even when the weather doesn’t cooperate. Get a quote directly on their website by clicking here (please check the specific conditions on their website).
Climbing Mont Blanc is a serious undertaking that requires exceptional physical preparation. Although the course is designed to optimize the preparation phase and, most importantly, acclimatization, it is necessary to come to the course with a consistent and intense training regimen that ensures the ability to sustain prolonged physical effort for several hours.
Additionally, the conditions on the upper part of the mountain are often very harsh, with strong winds and cold temperatures that make the ascent quite challenging. Therefore, being mentally prepared is also crucial, as reaching the summit will require intense effort.
From a technical perspective, the ascent from the Gouter Hut route does not require significant mountaineering experience (the first few days on Gran Paradiso will also be used to refine our crampon technique in preparation for Mont Blanc). The more technical sections include the stretch between the Tete Rousse Hut and the Gouter Hut (which involves crossing the famous couloir), a rock section with a maximum difficulty of Grade II (sometimes traversed with crampons on), and the final ridge after the Vallot Hut, which becomes quite narrow and exposed. Prior experience with this type of terrain is certainly useful, although we can confidently say that around 60% of our clients have reached the summit without any prior mountaineering experience.
B3 Mountaineering boots are essential for the type of climbing you'll face. These boots provide the necessary support, warm and performance. B2 boots are not fine for high altitude climbs.
Steel 12-point crampons with anti-balling plates are essential. Avoid 10-point, aluminum, or rigid one-piece models, as they won't provide the necessary grip or flexibility.
A lightweight, comfortable harness. Choose one with gear loops, ensuring it's compact and easy to wear with a backpack for unrestricted movement.
A lightweight, durable climbing helmet. It should provide solid protection while being well-ventilated and comfortable for extended wear during the ascent.
Extendable trekking poles are useful during preparation days but not needed for the tech climbs. Ensure they're lightweight, adjustable, and easy to pack away when not in use.
A screw-gate carabiner is a versatile and reliable tool for ski touring. It features a locking mechanism for added security, making it ideal for anchoring gear or connecting components.
A personal anchoring system is essential for safety when skiing on a glacier. It is valuable in rescue situations and during potential abseils, ensuring versatility and reliability.
A hybrid mountaineering ice axe with a maximum length of 60 cm offers improved comfort during the climb. It provides better maneuverability and fits well with climbing gear.
Bring sunglasses with high protection (grade 3 or 4) to protect your eyes from intense sunlight and glare at high altitudes, ensuring clear vision and reducing eye strain.
Bring ski goggles to protect your eyes from blizzards, strong winds, and cold. They ensure clear vision and shield your face from harsh weather conditions.
Bring a headlamp with new batteries and a minimum output of 300 lumens. It’s essential for visibility and safety during night-time climbs and low-light situations.
Bring gaiters to protect your boots and lower legs from snow, debris, and moisture during the climb. They keep you dry and comfortable by preventing snow or rocks from entering your boots.
Pack a down jacket to ensure warmth in cold conditions. Its insulation traps body heat, making it ideal for high altitudes and freezing temperatures, while remaining lightweight and compressible.
Your hardshell jacket must include a hood for full protection from wind, rain, and snow. Waterproof and breathable, it serves as a critical outer layer, ensuring comfort and mobility in harsh conditions.
Bring full-finger thin gloves for dexterity and light protection during the Haute Route. They offer warmth in mild conditions while allowing precise hand movements.
Full-finger softshell gloves are essential for protection against wind and light moisture. They offer warmth, durability, and flexibility, ensuring ease of movement while handling gear in cold conditions.
A buff is versatile and provides essential protection against wind, cold, and sun. It can be worn around the neck, over the face, or as a head covering, offering warmth and comfort in changing conditions.
A warm hat is crucial for retaining heat during cold conditions. It provides insulation for your head and ears, ensuring comfort while climbing in low temperatures and protecting against wind chill.
A sun hat is essential for protecting your face and neck from harmful UV rays. It offers shade and breathability, keeping you cool and comfortable during long hours in sunny conditions.
Lightweight leggings are ideal for base layer during cold days. Merino wool is preferable for its moisture-wicking properties and comfort, providing warmth without adding bulk and helping regulate temperature.
Stretch softshell pants offer flexibility and comfort. They provide a balance of breathability and weather resistance, allowing for ease of movement while protecting against wind and light moisture.
Hardshell waterproof pants are vital for protection against rain and snow. Choose ones with full-length separating side zippers for easy access and ventilation, ensuring comfort and mobility.
A lightweight long-sleeve sun top is essential for UV protection. Opt for merino wool or synthetic materials instead of cotton for better moisture management and comfort.
Shorts are perfect for warm approach days, providing comfort and freedom of movement. Choose lightweight, breathable materials to keep cool while navigating to your climbing destination.
Pack three pairs of hiking socks, long ones, for added protection. They help prevent blisters and ensure your feet stay comfortable throughout your trip.
A midlayer top is essential for insulation and must fit comfortably over your baselayers. It provides warmth while allowing for breathability, making it ideal for varying temperatures during your tour.
Approach shoes are essential for rocky terrain and can be used during some climbs. They offer a good balance of traction and comfort, making them ideal for navigating both trails and technical sections.
A sleeping bag liner is essential for comfort, with silk being preferable due to its lightweight nature. It’s mandatory in all huts in the Alps, used alongside the blankets provided for a cozy sleep.
A hydration system with at least 1 liter capacity is essential, depending on your drinking habits. Camelbacks work well but may freeze in cold conditions, so plan accordingly to stay hydrated.
A personal care bag is essential for your trip. Include a toothbrush, toothpaste, first-aid tape, Band-Aids and any personal medications or prescriptions for a safe and comfortable journey.
Sunscreen with SPF 50 is essential for high mountain conditions, providing superior protection against harmful UV rays. Apply generously to all exposed skin to prevent sunburn during the tour.
A high-protection lipscreen is essential for shielding your lips from UV rays and harsh weather in the mountains. It helps prevent chapping and sunburn, keeping your lips moisturized and safe.
Earplugs are a must-have for your trip, especially if you find yourself in a hut with a neighbor who thinks they're auditioning for a snoring competition. Enjoy some peace and quiet!
Keep your personal documents in a waterproof bag to protect them from moisture and damage. This ensures that essentials like your ID, permits, and insurance information stay safe.
A technical mountaineering backpack. It should have a capacity of 30-40 liters, providing enough space for gear without being too bulky or heavy
