Climbing the Matterhorn is a truly breathtaking experience that embodies the essence of mountaineering. Its iconic pyramid shape stands majestically on the Swiss-Italian border, drawing adventurers from around the world. For many, the Matterhorn is not just a mountain—it's a symbol of challenge, beauty, and human perseverance.
However, climbing the Matterhorn is not for the faint-hearted. It demands both physical and mental endurance. The ascent typically takes between 8 to 11 hours, requiring climbers to be in top physical condition. You need to have solid mountaineering skills, especially in rock climbing and handling mixed terrain of ice and snow.
This 6-day program is the result of over 20 years of experience as Mountain Guides on the Matterhorn and has been designed to maximize the chances of success.
We will be based in Courmayeur, an ideal starting point for preparing for the Matterhorn climb, less crowded than its sister city, Chamonix, in addition to the advantage of being in Italy, which is, of course, famous for its good food!
The first 4 days will be dedicated to perfecting acclimatization and, if needed, refining technical skills. We will undertake technically demanding ascents, but with the aim of not exhausting the body too much in preparation for the Matterhorn climb.
The climbs during these first 4 days have been meticulously planned to ensure you reach peak condition for the Matterhorn ascent, and some of them (particulary day 3 and 4) are hidden gems, away from the more well-known routes.
During these first 4 days, we will spend 1 night in a mountain hut to optimize the acclimatization process, which is crucial for the Matterhorn climb (guiding ratio 2:1 on these 4 days).
Typically, if weather permits, the plan is to start with a slightly more physically intense segment, and then reduce the intensity, to avoid arriving too fatigued for the final two days of the Matterhorn climb.
In the last 2 days, we will move to Zermatt to ascend to the Hörnli Hut, from where we will begin the climb of the Matterhorn (guiding ratio 1:1 on the last 2 days).
If the mountain conditions allow, it will also be possible to undertake the traverse of the Matterhorn, descending on the Italian side (and ascending via the Swiss route), which is undoubtedly the most complete way to climb the Matterhorn!
If you don't have 6 days available, you can also check out our Matterhorn 4 Day Course, which includes 2 days of preparation and acclimatization, followed by the Matterhorn ascent in the last 2 days.
The day before the start of the program, at 18 pm, meeting at the Hotel Funiva in Courmayeur with the Guide, who will introduce themselves, review your gear, and go over the week's program along with the latest weather forecast.
On our first day, we will take the Skyway cable car up to 3,466 meters at Punta Helbronner, in the heart of the Mont Blanc massif. Here, we will find the Torino hut, which will be our base for the first night. After descending into the "depths" of the mountain via an incredible elevator, we will emerge directly onto the Giant Glacier. From here, you will put on your crampons, rope up with your Guide, and set out to traverse the Aiguilles Marbrées. This fun ridge presents terrain similar to that of the Matterhorn, with a mix of roped travel and pitched climbing. It’s an excellent introduction to mixed terrain, and its manageable length allows to start warming up without being too demanding, enabling your bodies to gradually acclimatize.
In the afternoon, we will return to the Torino hut, where we'll spend the night.
After a hearty Italian breakfast, we will head towards the Aiguilles d'Entrèves, where we will complete its traverse. Today's itinerary is certainly more challenging and exposed than yesterday's, allowing us to continue our acclimatization and refine our technique. Once back on the glacier, we will ascend to the Col des Flambeaux, and later return in the afternoon to Punta Helbronner and the Torino hut. After a recovering lunch at the hut, we will take the SkyWay cable car back down to the valley and to our hotel for a refreshing shower and to plan the following days.
Today, we’re in for a fantastic climb, known and visited by only a few mountaineers. We will be tackling the Rey ridge to Punta Tsan. For decades, this climb has been used by the Guides of the Matterhorn to test their clients before the ascent. It offers all the same characteristics that we’ll find on the Matterhorn: prolonged physical effort, short-rope climbing, pitches on beautiful rock, and a challenging and exposed descent. Additionally, Punta Tsan is located in a truly wild setting, where encountering ibex and chamois is almost guaranteed, with a spectacular view of the Matterhorn.
In short, it’s a climb that’s off the main circuits, but one that will remain an unforgettable experience.
In the afternoon, return to the hotel in Courmayeur.
Climbing the Matterhorn requires a lot of confidence in climbing, and having training focused on this type of activity can certainly make the ascent much easier. Today, we will tackle a multi-pitch route of moderate difficulty and length. This day will also serve as a 'recovery' before attempting the Matterhorn in the next two days, so the goal is not to overexert ourselves, allowing the body to recover from the previous days' activities and be in top shape for the final ascent. In the afternoon, we will return to the hotel, where we can prepare the gear for the Matterhorn climb over the following two days.
In the morning, we will transfer to Täsch, where we will leave our cars. From there, a short train ride will take us to Zermatt, where we will take the lifts up to the Schwarzsee station. From Schwarzsee, our hike to the Hörnli Hut will begin (approximately 2 hours of walking).
Once at the hut, we will be able to enjoy the view of the Matterhorn, which rises right behind the refuge, and appreciate the beauty of this incredible mountain.
The big day! After breakfast (usually served around 4 a.m.), you will rope up with you Mountain Guide directly inside the hut, as the ridge starts just a few hundred meters behind the refuge, with the first ladders and fixed ropes. From here, our ascent of the Matterhorn will begin. The most important thing will be to maintain a steady pace, avoiding sudden accelerations or slowdowns, to keep our heart working at a regular rhythm.
The first part of the climb involves alternating between fixed ropes and actual climbing, without ever being too difficult. Here, knowing the route is crucial to avoid taking one of the many 'false paths' that have formed over time due to the mistakes of parties unfamiliar with the route.
We will then reach the Untere Moseley Platte, a short, slightly more challenging pitch, which will lead us directly to the Solvay Hut, located at exactly 4,003 meters. This stretch (from the base of the mountain to the Solvay Hut), if done at a calm pace, should not take more than 2 to 2.5 hours at most, as the difficulty of the ridge changes here, and taking longer would mean needing too much time for the descent (the most difficult part of climbing a mountain like the Matterhorn).
After the Solvay, the terrain becomes more challenging and exposed until we reach the summit fixed ropes, which, with one last effort, will take us to the top (in this final section, crampons are often required as we move along the edge of the north face of the Matterhorn). From the Swiss summit, with a short exposed ridge, we will then reach the Italian summit, where the Matterhorn cross is located.
The descent will follow the same route or, if conditions are optimal, we could complete the Matterhorn traverse, descending along the Italian ridge and arriving in Cervinia, the most complete way to finish the ascent of the Matterhorn.
Back to valley and end of the program.
The price includes:
The price does not include:
The meeting point for the course is at Hotel Funivia in Courmayeur, at 6:00 PM on the day before the program begins. If you have not booked your stay at Hotel Funivia (which we recommend), please attend the meeting with the guide bringing the gear you will use during the week (both technical equipment and clothing), so that we can conduct a gear review.
To climb the Matterhorn, you need a combination of technical and physical skills:
Physical Fitness:
Mental Toughness:
Training is essential for a safe and successful Matterhorn ascent. Over the years, we’ve seen that specific preparation significantly elevates your chances of reaching the summit. This iconic peak demands excellent fitness, endurance, and technical skills.
In the past, finding coaches specialized in mountaineering was a challenge. However, the launch of Uphill Athlete by renowned alpinist Steve House transformed the landscape of mountain sports training.
That’s why we partnered with Steve and Uphill Athlete, they are the leaders in mountain sports training, to support you in your preparation. Their science-based methods and expert-designed plans have helped countless mountain athletes build the strength, endurance, and confidence needed for challenging climbs like the Matterhorn.
When you sign up for any of our courses, you’ll receive a voucher for:
With this partnership, you’ll have access to the best tools and guidance to make your dream climb a reality. Start preparing today!
The Guiding Ratio is 1:2 (1 Guide to 2 Guests) for the first 4 days of the course and then 1:1 for the last 2 days, during the Matterhorn ascent.
The climbing season for the Matterhorn generally runs from early July (when the Hörnli Hut opens) until the end of September. Of course, each season in the Alps is different, and especially in recent years, with the undeniable effects of climate change, there has been a significant increase in variability from one season to another.
The main factor determining optimal climbing conditions on the Matterhorn is the amount of snow present (a mountain like the Matterhorn is easier to climb when it is completely - or almost completely - dry). In winters with low snowfall, which has frequently been the case in recent seasons, the climb is often already in good condition by early July. That being said, the best period to have the highest chances of finding good conditions on the mountain is statistically from mid-July to the end of August.
This, of course, refers to the mountain conditions; as for the weather, unfortunately, that is something we cannot control (at least not yet 😁) - see below for the specific FAQ on what happens in case of bad weather.
Since the weather is beyond our control, in the event of bad weather or poor conditions on the mountain, the lead Guide will suggest alternative climbs. Generally, when bad weather sets in around the Matterhorn, on the Italian-Swiss border, there are other areas in the southern Alps that remain on the edge of the storm, allowing us to complete highly satisfying climbs that offer technical challenges similar to the Matterhorn.
Every decision made by our Guides on the mountain (and this should be the key reason for hiring a Mountain Guide) is focused on the safety of our Guests, which is always the north-star behind all our decisions (we have a 20-year track record with no incidents in the Alps, and we intend to keep it still for a long time!).
Sure, reaching the summit of the mountain with our Guest is the greatest joy and reward for a Mountain Guide, but this should never come at the expense of safety. Let’s not forget that reaching the summit is only halfway through the climb!
During the program, a total of 2 nights will be spent in mountain huts: Day 1 for acclimatization and preparation, and Day 5 at the Hörnli hut.
On the other days (Day 0, Day 2, Day3 and Day 4), accommodation will be in a hotel in the valley. Our base will be Courmayeur, an ideal starting point for acclimatization climbs in the Mont Blanc massif (which also has the advantage of being less expensive than nearby Chamonix). Courmayeur offers a variety of accommodation options, though we recommend booking at Hotel Funivia (be sure to mention that you're booking for the course with Summitguides). Besides being our starting base (and the location of the initial meeting), Hotel Funivia offers exceptional value for money, and the warm hospitality of Elena and Vittorio, the owners, remains an unforgettable souvenir in the testimonials of our Guests. In addition, you will be able to leave your extra belongings here while we are in the huts.
Of course, booking at Hotel Funivia is not mandatory, and you're free to explore other options in Courmayeur (here’s a useful link for your search).
During the climbs, we recommend bringing easily digestible food (cereal bars, dried fruit, etc.). The important thing is to have enough with you for the first two days, after which you'll be able to refill during the week at supermarkets in Courmayeur. As for the two days you'll spend at the mountain hut, once the climb is finished and you're back at the hut, usually in the early afternoon, you'll be able to order a proper meal. Don’t forget that we are in Italy, where the food is good and the prices are reasonable 😉!
The most convenient airports for reaching Courmayeur are Geneva and Milan Malpensa. Geneva definitely offers a better solution in terms of public transportation to Courmayeur, whereas from Milan Malpensa, it's necessary to rent a car.
At the Rifugio Torino (Day 1 and 2), you can expect a typical Italian dinner, starting with a first course of pasta or soup, followed by a second course usually consisting of vegetables or meat, and a dessert, with very generous portions. At the Hörnli Hut, meals are also plentiful and very good. Both huts offer vegetarian options as well as alternatives for specific intolerances (gluten-free, lactose-free, etc.). In all huts, you will need to purchase bottled water.
Both huts where we will stay overnight accept credit cards, so there is no need to carry much cash with you (just for small expenses). In Courmayeur, there are numerous ATMs available in case of need.
Yes, there is usually good reception at the huts. It is also possible to charge your electronic devices, though having a power bank can be useful. The charging outlets are of the European type, so if you are coming from outside Europe, you will need to bring an adapter.
We always recommend that clients have two types of insurance. One should cover search and rescue expenses and specifically include extreme activities like mountaineering. Additionally, we advise taking out cancellation insurance in case last-minute issues prevent you from participating.
We are always looking for innovative ways to satisfy our clients and stay at the forefront of the industry. That's why, in addition, we haev partnered with WetterHeld, a forward-thinking German insurance provider. Their parametric insurance is designed to automatically refund you if it rains during your course, ensuring that you’re covered no matter what nature throws your way. With this partnership, we’re making sure that your experience is as seamless as possible, even when the weather doesn’t cooperate. Get a quote directly on their website by clicking here (please check the specific conditions on their website).
To climb the Matterhorn, you need a combination of technical and physical skills:
Physical Fitness:
Mental Toughness:
Mid-flex mountaineering boots are essential for the type of climbing you'll face. These boots provide the necessary support and performance. B3 boots are not fine for technical mountaineering courses.
Steel 12-point crampons with anti-balling plates are essential. Avoid 10-point, aluminum, or rigid one-piece models, as they won't provide the necessary grip or flexibility.
A lightweight, comfortable harness. Choose one with gear loops, ensuring it's compact and easy to wear with a backpack for unrestricted movement.
A lightweight, durable climbing helmet. It should provide solid protection while being well-ventilated and comfortable for extended wear during the ascent.
Extendable trekking poles are useful during preparation days but not needed for the tech climbs. Ensure they're lightweight, adjustable, and easy to pack away when not in use.
A screw-gate carabiner is a versatile and reliable tool for ski touring. It features a locking mechanism for added security, making it ideal for anchoring gear or connecting components.
A personal anchoring system is essential for safety when skiing on a glacier. It is valuable in rescue situations and during potential abseils, ensuring versatility and reliability.
A hybrid mountaineering ice axe with a maximum length of 60 cm offers improved comfort during the climb. It provides better maneuverability and fits well with climbing gear.
Bring sunglasses with high protection (grade 3 or 4) to protect your eyes from intense sunlight and glare at high altitudes, ensuring clear vision and reducing eye strain.
Bring ski goggles to protect your eyes from blizzards, strong winds, and cold. They ensure clear vision and shield your face from harsh weather conditions.
Bring a headlamp with new batteries and a minimum output of 300 lumens. It’s essential for visibility and safety during night-time climbs and low-light situations.
Bring gaiters to protect your boots and lower legs from snow, debris, and moisture during the climb. They keep you dry and comfortable by preventing snow or rocks from entering your boots.
Pack a down jacket to ensure warmth in cold conditions. Its insulation traps body heat, making it ideal for high altitudes and freezing temperatures, while remaining lightweight and compressible.
Your hardshell jacket must include a hood for full protection from wind, rain, and snow. Waterproof and breathable, it serves as a critical outer layer, ensuring comfort and mobility in harsh conditions.
Bring full-finger thin gloves for dexterity and light protection during the Haute Route. They offer warmth in mild conditions while allowing precise hand movements.
Full-finger softshell gloves are essential for protection against wind and light moisture. They offer warmth, durability, and flexibility, ensuring ease of movement while handling gear in cold conditions.
A buff is versatile and provides essential protection against wind, cold, and sun. It can be worn around the neck, over the face, or as a head covering, offering warmth and comfort in changing conditions.
A warm hat is crucial for retaining heat during cold conditions. It provides insulation for your head and ears, ensuring comfort while climbing in low temperatures and protecting against wind chill.
A sun hat is essential for protecting your face and neck from harmful UV rays. It offers shade and breathability, keeping you cool and comfortable during long hours in sunny conditions.
Lightweight leggings are ideal for base layer during cold days. Merino wool is preferable for its moisture-wicking properties and comfort, providing warmth without adding bulk and helping regulate temperature.
Stretch softshell pants offer flexibility and comfort. They provide a balance of breathability and weather resistance, allowing for ease of movement while protecting against wind and light moisture.
Hardshell waterproof pants are vital for protection against rain and snow. Choose ones with full-length separating side zippers for easy access and ventilation, ensuring comfort and mobility.
A lightweight long-sleeve sun top is essential for UV protection. Opt for merino wool or synthetic materials instead of cotton for better moisture management and comfort.
Shorts are perfect for warm approach days, providing comfort and freedom of movement. Choose lightweight, breathable materials to keep cool while navigating to your climbing destination.
Pack three pairs of hiking socks, long ones, for added protection. They help prevent blisters and ensure your feet stay comfortable throughout your trip.
A midlayer top is essential for insulation and must fit comfortably over your baselayers. It provides warmth while allowing for breathability, making it ideal for varying temperatures during your tour.
Approach shoes are essential for rocky terrain and can be used during some climbs. They offer a good balance of traction and comfort, making them ideal for navigating both trails and technical sections.
Rock climbing shoes are essential for multi-pitch routes, providing the necessary grip and precision. Choose a pair that provides comfort for all-day wear during your adventure.
A sleeping bag liner is essential for comfort, with silk being preferable due to its lightweight nature. It’s mandatory in all huts in the Alps, used alongside the blankets provided for a cozy sleep.
A hydration system with at least 1 liter capacity is essential, depending on your drinking habits. Camelbacks work well but may freeze in cold conditions, so plan accordingly to stay hydrated.
A personal care bag is essential for your trip. Include a toothbrush, toothpaste, first-aid tape, Band-Aids and any personal medications or prescriptions for a safe and comfortable journey.
Sunscreen with SPF 50 is essential for high mountain conditions, providing superior protection against harmful UV rays. Apply generously to all exposed skin to prevent sunburn during the tour.
A high-protection lipscreen is essential for shielding your lips from UV rays and harsh weather in the mountains. It helps prevent chapping and sunburn, keeping your lips moisturized and safe.
Earplugs are a must-have for your trip, especially if you find yourself in a hut with a neighbor who thinks they're auditioning for a snoring competition. Enjoy some peace and quiet!
Keep your personal documents in a waterproof bag to protect them from moisture and damage. This ensures that essentials like your ID, permits, and insurance information stay safe.
A technical mountaineering backpack. It should have a capacity of 30-40 liters, providing enough space for gear without being too bulky or heavy.
